What this covers
Concrete flatwork in the Wenatchee Valley and the towns around it.
Slabs & surfaces
- Driveways, patios, walkways and sidewalks
- Slabs, including garage and shop pads
Removal & finishes
- Concrete removal and demolition
- Stamped and decorative concrete
What matters before the pour
Compare what is under the slab, not just the square footage. An estimate should make the excavation, old-concrete removal, base preparation, slab thickness and reinforcement clear. Access matters too: a truck reaching the forms is a different job from moving concrete through a narrow side yard. Put the intended use on the table early, whether that is patio furniture, daily parking or a loaded shop floor. Those details make bids easier to compare.
Set the drainage and finished height first. The surface needs to work with door thresholds, siding and the surrounding yard while carrying water away from the building. Loose fill or a wet, poorly prepared base can let a slab settle after the finish looks complete. Demolition and excavation come before compacted base, forms and reinforcement; the pour is only one part of the job. Fixing those conditions later can mean removing concrete again.
Choose the finish with everyday use in mind. A driveway, a walkway and a stamped patio have different demands for grip and appearance. Agree on the finish, control joints and any sealer before placement. Then allow time for curing: Wenatchee Valley heat, dry wind and freezing weather all affect the plan. Ask for clear instructions on when to walk, park and place heavier loads on the finished slab.
Questions
Concrete questions
A few things worth settling before the pour.
Can new concrete go over an old slab?
Only if the existing slab and the added height make sense. An overlay may suit sound, stable concrete. It can also carry old cracks through to the new surface or raise a walkway too close to siding and door thresholds.
If the slab has settled, heaved or broken apart, the base needs attention. Discuss removal and disposal in the estimate so the repair addresses what is underneath.
What if the slab cracks or water starts pooling?
Look at movement and drainage, not just the crack. Concrete shrinks as it cures; control joints help guide that movement but do not promise a crack-free slab. A widening crack, a raised edge or new ponding can point to a different problem.
Settlement, loose fill and water around the slab can change its slope. Filling the surface crack alone will not correct a moving base or water draining toward the house.
When can it be poured, walked on or driven on?
Weather and the curing plan set the timing. Cold can damage fresh concrete; summer heat and dry wind can pull moisture out too quickly. The pour date needs to allow for those conditions.
Walking, parking and heavy loads have different waiting periods. Get those instructions for your actual pour, including curing care and deicing products, before putting the slab into use.
What upkeep does stamped concrete need?
Plan for sealer upkeep and traction. Sun and traffic wear the finish, so stamped concrete needs periodic care. Ask which sealer is proposed and what maintenance its manufacturer recommends.
A sealed surface can be slippery when wet or icy. Discuss texture and traction before choosing the finish, especially for steps and sloped walkways.